Saturday, November 13, 2010
Sweetwater Community Preparedness Fair
Today's the big day! We are excited to offer these blogs to anyone who is interested in being a little more prepared. We would appreciate your feedback on our topics and presentation. And don't forget that Boy Scout motto: BE PREPARED!!
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
Family Emergency Plan Forms
Some Helpful Forms:
Please follow the link below to find an excellent Family Emergency Plan form:
This link provides a form for you to fill out with important emergency contact information:
Solar Oven - Cook with the Sun!
Solar Oven Construction Directions
[I am sorry that the pictures did not come through for this post. You can follow the link below to view the pictures on the web site I mainly used in constructing my oven. The instructions here are exactly how I made the oven used at the Community Preparedness Fair.]
I have made some adjustments to the instructions for the way I made my medium-sized Solar Oven. The original instructions for this oven can be found online at:
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/radabaugh30.html
This is a very good starter model that can lead you and your family to a lifetime of enjoyment without threatening your pocketbook. This model of a solar cooker can easily be built for under $20.
Gathering materials
The first step involves a search for cardboard boxes in your local grocery and department stores. For the oven box, you are looking for two particular boxes. These can be rectangular (easier to find) or square (their collectors work better). The smaller of the two boxes becomes the inner box, so it defines the cooking area and the power of the cooker. For a medium size cooker, the area of opening of the inner box (length times width) should equal 120 to 160 square inches, and it should be 9 to 12 inches deep. The larger box, the outer one, must be two to three inches larger in all directions. For the model I made, I used a square box 12 ½” by 12 ½” by 10” deep for the inner box. The outer box was a rectangle 15” by 16” by 12” deep.
The oven box
For collectors, find four flat pieces of regular (not double strength) cardboard from appliance or bicycle stores. These should be about two feet by three feet. And gather five to seven more boxes which you will cut up for insulation.
The top of the inner box must rest one inch lower than the top rim of the outer box
Other things to gather:
The tops of these filler insulation pieces must be arranged so that, when the glass rests on the top rim of the inner box, it makes a good seal. (You don’t want gaps where the heated air will escape.) Ideally, the top edges of the filler cardboard will be slightly below the top level of the inner box. Also, it must be easy to slip a finger under the glass for removal. In use, the cooker will be tilted toward the sun. Therefore, the sidewall, which will be lower when it’s tilted, must be arranged so it will support the glass in position.
Arrange the filler pieces so the g lass rests on the top rim of the inner box, and so you can slip a finger under the glass to remove it.
Paint the inside of the inner box black. I suggest using a high heat spray paint like the kind used for barbecue grills.
Note for later: The box will smoke slightly during the first couple of times it is heated up, but this is just a curing process. Also, cardboard shrinks slightly when heated, so you will have to repack the cardboard later to keep the inner box tight.
Here is the pattern for the collectors. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
The dimensions for the width of the collectors will depend on the dimensions of your glass top.
The collectors
Draw the collectors, as shown, on the four flat pieces of cardboard. (I prepared a pattern from a piece of the paper that was between each aluminum plate. I placed the pattern on the cardboard and traced around it, then cut out the cardboard collectors.) A square cooker will have all four collectors the same size, while a rectangular cooker will have two sizes, based on the length and width of the glass. The 67° angle can be found using a protractor, or by folding a piece of paper as shown in the diagram below. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
You can find the 67° angle by folding a piece of paper as shown here. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
Cut out all four collectors. Then take a tool with a blunt point and crease a line along the dotted lines. (Let me make another note here: I chose to make fabric hinges for three of the connecting edges of the collectors. You will need to cut off the side tabs on both edges of two collector pieces. You will also need to cut one side tab off the other two pieces, but be sure to cut the tabs on opposite sides. This is very important. You should have a tab on the left side of one collector and a tab on the right side of the second collector.) Bend in on the crease lines. All folds go to the same side. Next, bend the upper and lower flaps only all the way over and glue them down. Press with weights until the glue dries.
Gluing aluminum to the collectors
Take your paper pattern and fold all tabs to the inside. You will cut the aluminum plate so that it fits just inside the large main area of the collector. Cut the aluminum slightly smaller than your pattern for the cardboard. Do not cover the side tabs. Glue aluminum to the smooth side of the collector (the one without the folded tabs) with the shiny side out using Shoo Goo or E-6000. I found that it was advisable to glue the top edge only with the glue. The aluminum plates expand when they heat up in the sun and become very warped. By leaving the sides and lower edges free, they could expand and contract and be more effective in reflecting the light into your oven.
Alternatively, roll aluminum foil over the collectors, and rub your finger over the side flap bends to show where to cut. Cut the foil so that it does not quite reach these bends; it will be easier to center later. Do not cover the side flaps.
Leave two of the flaps on the outer box out, so you can tie the collectors to them when it's windy.
Smear a glue mixture (two parts water, one part white glue) over the dull side of the foil, using a piece of cloth and two to three tablespoons of glue mix. Line up the collector and lower it onto the foil, tap it lightly, and turn it over. Apply the foil to the side of the collector that is not glued to the bent-over upper and lower flaps. Being a little off center is okay, but if it’s off too much, peel off the foil and try again. Press on the edges of the foil and pull out large wrinkles. Take a clean cloth and rub outward on the foil to smooth it.
Connecting the collectors
I made a square cooker and I decided to make fabric hinges for my collectors. I cut my fabric 6” wide and the length of the side minus the folds at top and bottom. It wound up being about 12” long for the one I made. Remember, you have two collectors with one tab each. These tabs stay free. Place your collectors face down (shiny side down). Leave a little space, about ¼”, between the collectors so they will lay flat when folded. Glue the cloth hinges at the three side pairs without tabs. You will now have four collector panels connected by three cloth hinges and two tabbed sides that are free. Make holes in the tabs close to the fold and use string or a long shoe lace to tie the tabs together.
Alternatively, for a square cooker, glue two opposite sets of side flaps together, as below. Then lay them out as they will fit on the oven box. Cut off the side flaps from one of the unattached corners. Connect this corner by laying these two collectors next to each other (about ¼" apart), with the foil sides down. Now cut a cloth about 18" x 4" and glue it over this corner, as shown. When the glue is dry, fold inward on this cloth hinge and arrange the collectors so that the unattached side flaps are on the outside and line up with each other. Poke holes near the bends of the side flaps, and tie the two segments tightly together with elastic material. This will allow these corners to separate slightly when the collectors are folded flat, but pulls the corners together when unfolded.
To make a cloth hinge for the collectors: First, cut off the side flaps from one corner. Next, glue the cloth to the panels
For a rectangular cooker, set collectors out as they will fit on the box and glue the side flaps together on two opposite corners. When the glue has dried, poke holes in the side flaps on the other two corners, placing holes near the cardboard bend, and tie these corners together with a cotton cord. When it comes time later to fold the collectors flat and pack them away, the rectangular collectors will be untied and separated into two sets of paired collectors.
Connect the collector panels with glue and with laces.
The slip-in piece
A slip-in piece made from cardboard and cloth is attached to the upper collector. This slips between the cardboard filler pieces of the upper sidewall for quick attachment of the collectors to the oven box.
[Please see the link above for the pattern.]
To make it, cut a piece of cardboard 16" one way and the length of the glass the other way. Crease two lines and bend as shown. Then cut a piece of cloth six inches one way and the length of the glass the other way, and glue three inches of the cloth inside the folded cardboard (leave three inches outside), as shown. Next, glue the cloth that was left out to the upper collector (glue it to the doubled-over lower flap of the collector). On square collectors, this would be to the right of the cloth hinge. I made two slip-in pieces and attached them to opposing collector panels. As you look at my solar oven, there is a slip-in piece on the right and on the left of my cooker box.
Finishing up, setting up
The drip pan: A dark baking tin is used for a drip pan to hold food and catch boil-over. It’s nice if the drip pan puts a slight pressure on the sidewalls, for stability. If the baking tin has handholds, these may be bent for a better fit. You can also build a drip pan from wood, or by bending sheet metal. I used an extra piece of aluminum plate to make my own drip pan. I measured the inside of my cooking box and made the drip pan about 1” smaller so it would fit easily inside. I added 2” all around to fold up and make the sides (this would be 4” extra in both directions). Place the aluminum plate, cut to the correct size, shiny side up. Measure in 2” and score well with a blunt instrument. I used a dull pencil. Do this on all four sides. Turn the aluminum over. You will see a small square in each corner. Score from the inside corner to the outside cut corner. Do this in all four corners. These scores will all radiate out from the center (but they do not go all the way to the center - they are just across those little squares in the corners). Cut off the corners just below the score lines (see drawing). Score about ¼” down along one side. I used a metal ruler to make my score marks. Keep the ruler in place and fold the edge up. Remove the ruler and fold the edge all the way down so it is flat. Make a second fold the same way you did the first. You will have smooth edges by doing this and it will prevent anyone getting cut by the raw metal edges. Repeat this on all four sides. Turn the aluminum over again so the shiny side is up. Fold up each side on the score lines. At the corners, fold them carefully to the inside. Press the excess fold flat against one side - it doesn’t matter which one you choose.
The glass: Check again to see that it rests on the top rim of the inner box with no large air gap. The glass will become hot, so handle it by the edges or use a cloth. Keep the glass clean. Remember to buff or cover the edges with tape so they’re not sharp.
Propping the oven toward the sun: Use rocks or other objects in front and back. If you use only one prop, the wind can easily tip the cooker. I made a special holder from scrap wood that can keep the oven tipped at two different angles. One angle is better during winter and the other is for other times when the sun is more directly overhead.
Aiming: Use shadows created by the cooker to orient it; don’t look at the sun. Look into the oven and adjust it so there are no shadows top or bottom, left or right. Aim the cooker slightly in front of the sun’s path so you don‘t have to adjust it so often..
Wind: Poke holes in the flaps left out of the oven box and also in the collectors on the top and bottom. Tie collectors to flaps with cotton cord. The scrap wood support I mentioned really helps to keep the wind under control without other tie-downs.
Cooking
Jars: Boil and steam food in recycled jars, half-gallon or smaller in size. Painting them black will reduce cooking time, but leave a clear strip to see food by using tape when painting.
When cooking, don’t overfill jars with beans and grains, as these foods expand. You can poke a hole in the lid or leave it on loose to avoid pressure buildup. If food is actively boiling, open jars slowly to release any built-up pressure. I’ve never broken a jar because of pressure buildup. If a lid sticks, tap around the edge, or pry up under it, to release any vacuum pressure. It should then open easily.
Learn to cook with more than one jar at a time. Start with the longest-cooking food, and when it is boiling, add more jars. Learn which foods (grains, potatoes, squash, lentils, etc.)—and what quantities of them— you can cook in one pass, so you can cook when you are gone all day. Learn cooking patterns that fit your lifestyle.
I have made some adjustments to the instructions for the way I made my medium-sized Solar Oven. The original instructions for this oven can be found online at:
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/radabaugh30.html
Gathering materials
The first step involves a search for cardboard boxes in your local grocery and department stores. For the oven box, you are looking for two particular boxes. These can be rectangular (easier to find) or square (their collectors work better). The smaller of the two boxes becomes the inner box, so it defines the cooking area and the power of the cooker. For a medium size cooker, the area of opening of the inner box (length times width) should equal 120 to 160 square inches, and it should be 9 to 12 inches deep. The larger box, the outer one, must be two to three inches larger in all directions. For the model I made, I used a square box 12 ½” by 12 ½” by 10” deep for the inner box. The outer box was a rectangle 15” by 16” by 12” deep.
The oven box
For collectors, find four flat pieces of regular (not double strength) cardboard from appliance or bicycle stores. These should be about two feet by three feet. And gather five to seven more boxes which you will cut up for insulation.
The top of the inner box must rest one inch lower than the top rim of the outer box
Other things to gather:
- Eight ounces of white paper glue (such as Elmer’s™).
- One tube of Shoo Goo or E-6000 glue.
- 4-5 sheets of aluminum plates used to print newspapers. (I found them in Snyder, TX for $2.00 a sheet - you may be able to find them for less elsewhere.)
- Alternatively, you can use one small roll of 18" wide heavy duty aluminum kitchen foil instead of the aluminum plates.
- A piece of double strength glass ½" larger than the length and width of the inner box (I used two layers of glass that I had in some old picture frames - 16“ X 20“. The local hardware store cut them to size for me for free). Buff the edges of the glass by rubbing a rock or metal over them, so they’re not dangerously sharp. Or you can cover the edges with heavy duty silver tape.
- A small amount of flat black paint.
- Some cotton cloth from recycled clothes.
- Some string.
Take the outer box and cut up scrap cardboard pieces to fit in the bottom (cut the cardboard with a mat knife, being careful not to cut yourself). Make these layers thick enough so that, when the inner box is placed in the outer box, the top rim of the inner box is one inch lower than the top rim of the outer box.
The outer box must have two opposite flaps left sticking out. Tuck the other two between the inner and outer boxes. The inner box must have all of its top flaps bent out and all the way back so that they fit between the inner and outer boxes.
Cut more pieces of cardboard to stuff between the inner and outer boxes until the inner box is wedged tightly. Doubled-over pieces look nicer at the top edge. The tops of these filler insulation pieces must be arranged so that, when the glass rests on the top rim of the inner box, it makes a good seal. (You don’t want gaps where the heated air will escape.) Ideally, the top edges of the filler cardboard will be slightly below the top level of the inner box. Also, it must be easy to slip a finger under the glass for removal. In use, the cooker will be tilted toward the sun. Therefore, the sidewall, which will be lower when it’s tilted, must be arranged so it will support the glass in position.
Arrange the filler pieces so the g lass rests on the top rim of the inner box, and so you can slip a finger under the glass to remove it.
Note for later: The box will smoke slightly during the first couple of times it is heated up, but this is just a curing process. Also, cardboard shrinks slightly when heated, so you will have to repack the cardboard later to keep the inner box tight.
Here is the pattern for the collectors. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
The dimensions for the width of the collectors will depend on the dimensions of your glass top.
Draw the collectors, as shown, on the four flat pieces of cardboard. (I prepared a pattern from a piece of the paper that was between each aluminum plate. I placed the pattern on the cardboard and traced around it, then cut out the cardboard collectors.) A square cooker will have all four collectors the same size, while a rectangular cooker will have two sizes, based on the length and width of the glass. The 67° angle can be found using a protractor, or by folding a piece of paper as shown in the diagram below. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
You can find the 67° angle by folding a piece of paper as shown here. [Please see the link above for the pattern.]
Cut out all four collectors. Then take a tool with a blunt point and crease a line along the dotted lines. (Let me make another note here: I chose to make fabric hinges for three of the connecting edges of the collectors. You will need to cut off the side tabs on both edges of two collector pieces. You will also need to cut one side tab off the other two pieces, but be sure to cut the tabs on opposite sides. This is very important. You should have a tab on the left side of one collector and a tab on the right side of the second collector.) Bend in on the crease lines. All folds go to the same side. Next, bend the upper and lower flaps only all the way over and glue them down. Press with weights until the glue dries.
Gluing aluminum to the collectors
Take your paper pattern and fold all tabs to the inside. You will cut the aluminum plate so that it fits just inside the large main area of the collector. Cut the aluminum slightly smaller than your pattern for the cardboard. Do not cover the side tabs. Glue aluminum to the smooth side of the collector (the one without the folded tabs) with the shiny side out using Shoo Goo or E-6000. I found that it was advisable to glue the top edge only with the glue. The aluminum plates expand when they heat up in the sun and become very warped. By leaving the sides and lower edges free, they could expand and contract and be more effective in reflecting the light into your oven.
Alternatively, roll aluminum foil over the collectors, and rub your finger over the side flap bends to show where to cut. Cut the foil so that it does not quite reach these bends; it will be easier to center later. Do not cover the side flaps.
Leave two of the flaps on the outer box out, so you can tie the collectors to them when it's windy.
Smear a glue mixture (two parts water, one part white glue) over the dull side of the foil, using a piece of cloth and two to three tablespoons of glue mix. Line up the collector and lower it onto the foil, tap it lightly, and turn it over. Apply the foil to the side of the collector that is not glued to the bent-over upper and lower flaps. Being a little off center is okay, but if it’s off too much, peel off the foil and try again. Press on the edges of the foil and pull out large wrinkles. Take a clean cloth and rub outward on the foil to smooth it.
Connecting the collectors
I made a square cooker and I decided to make fabric hinges for my collectors. I cut my fabric 6” wide and the length of the side minus the folds at top and bottom. It wound up being about 12” long for the one I made. Remember, you have two collectors with one tab each. These tabs stay free. Place your collectors face down (shiny side down). Leave a little space, about ¼”, between the collectors so they will lay flat when folded. Glue the cloth hinges at the three side pairs without tabs. You will now have four collector panels connected by three cloth hinges and two tabbed sides that are free. Make holes in the tabs close to the fold and use string or a long shoe lace to tie the tabs together.
Alternatively, for a square cooker, glue two opposite sets of side flaps together, as below. Then lay them out as they will fit on the oven box. Cut off the side flaps from one of the unattached corners. Connect this corner by laying these two collectors next to each other (about ¼" apart), with the foil sides down. Now cut a cloth about 18" x 4" and glue it over this corner, as shown. When the glue is dry, fold inward on this cloth hinge and arrange the collectors so that the unattached side flaps are on the outside and line up with each other. Poke holes near the bends of the side flaps, and tie the two segments tightly together with elastic material. This will allow these corners to separate slightly when the collectors are folded flat, but pulls the corners together when unfolded.
To make a cloth hinge for the collectors: First, cut off the side flaps from one corner. Next, glue the cloth to the panels
Connect the collector panels with glue and with laces.
A slip-in piece made from cardboard and cloth is attached to the upper collector. This slips between the cardboard filler pieces of the upper sidewall for quick attachment of the collectors to the oven box.
[Please see the link above for the pattern.]
To make it, cut a piece of cardboard 16" one way and the length of the glass the other way. Crease two lines and bend as shown. Then cut a piece of cloth six inches one way and the length of the glass the other way, and glue three inches of the cloth inside the folded cardboard (leave three inches outside), as shown. Next, glue the cloth that was left out to the upper collector (glue it to the doubled-over lower flap of the collector). On square collectors, this would be to the right of the cloth hinge. I made two slip-in pieces and attached them to opposing collector panels. As you look at my solar oven, there is a slip-in piece on the right and on the left of my cooker box.
Finishing up, setting up
The drip pan: A dark baking tin is used for a drip pan to hold food and catch boil-over. It’s nice if the drip pan puts a slight pressure on the sidewalls, for stability. If the baking tin has handholds, these may be bent for a better fit. You can also build a drip pan from wood, or by bending sheet metal. I used an extra piece of aluminum plate to make my own drip pan. I measured the inside of my cooking box and made the drip pan about 1” smaller so it would fit easily inside. I added 2” all around to fold up and make the sides (this would be 4” extra in both directions). Place the aluminum plate, cut to the correct size, shiny side up. Measure in 2” and score well with a blunt instrument. I used a dull pencil. Do this on all four sides. Turn the aluminum over. You will see a small square in each corner. Score from the inside corner to the outside cut corner. Do this in all four corners. These scores will all radiate out from the center (but they do not go all the way to the center - they are just across those little squares in the corners). Cut off the corners just below the score lines (see drawing). Score about ¼” down along one side. I used a metal ruler to make my score marks. Keep the ruler in place and fold the edge up. Remove the ruler and fold the edge all the way down so it is flat. Make a second fold the same way you did the first. You will have smooth edges by doing this and it will prevent anyone getting cut by the raw metal edges. Repeat this on all four sides. Turn the aluminum over again so the shiny side is up. Fold up each side on the score lines. At the corners, fold them carefully to the inside. Press the excess fold flat against one side - it doesn’t matter which one you choose.
The glass: Check again to see that it rests on the top rim of the inner box with no large air gap. The glass will become hot, so handle it by the edges or use a cloth. Keep the glass clean. Remember to buff or cover the edges with tape so they’re not sharp.
Propping the oven toward the sun: Use rocks or other objects in front and back. If you use only one prop, the wind can easily tip the cooker. I made a special holder from scrap wood that can keep the oven tipped at two different angles. One angle is better during winter and the other is for other times when the sun is more directly overhead.
Aiming: Use shadows created by the cooker to orient it; don’t look at the sun. Look into the oven and adjust it so there are no shadows top or bottom, left or right. Aim the cooker slightly in front of the sun’s path so you don‘t have to adjust it so often..
Wind: Poke holes in the flaps left out of the oven box and also in the collectors on the top and bottom. Tie collectors to flaps with cotton cord. The scrap wood support I mentioned really helps to keep the wind under control without other tie-downs.
Cooking
Jars: Boil and steam food in recycled jars, half-gallon or smaller in size. Painting them black will reduce cooking time, but leave a clear strip to see food by using tape when painting.
When cooking, don’t overfill jars with beans and grains, as these foods expand. You can poke a hole in the lid or leave it on loose to avoid pressure buildup. If food is actively boiling, open jars slowly to release any built-up pressure. I’ve never broken a jar because of pressure buildup. If a lid sticks, tap around the edge, or pry up under it, to release any vacuum pressure. It should then open easily.
Learn to cook with more than one jar at a time. Start with the longest-cooking food, and when it is boiling, add more jars. Learn which foods (grains, potatoes, squash, lentils, etc.)—and what quantities of them— you can cook in one pass, so you can cook when you are gone all day. Learn cooking patterns that fit your lifestyle.
- Beans: Use 2¼ cups of water for 1 cup of beans. If you boil them actively over a long time, add more water. Pintos take the longest.
- Grains: Most grains cook better if you preheat the water in the solar cooker for an hour or so. Use a two-to-one water-to-grains ratio. Long grain rice can be put in the cooker in cold water.
- Vegetables: These cook in jars with little or no water, or they can be added to beans and grains. Potatoes and sweet potatoes cook well on the rack, if lightly oiled. Otherwise, put them in jars. Winter squash cooks in its own skin. Corn on the cob steam-bakes in its own sheath.
- Bread: Bread cooks best in dark bread pans. Oil the pans. Let dough rise in the cooker without collectors attached, then add the collectors when you’re ready to bake. I have found that it takes a bit longer for bread to bake in my oven, but it tastes great!
- Pizza and pies: Bake the crust first.
Family Disaster Plan
DEVELOPING A FAMILY DISASTER PLAN
Disaster can strike quickly and without warning. It can force you to evacuate your neighborhood or confine you to your home. Your family can be anywhere when disaster strikes - at work, at school or in the car. How will you find each other? Do you have any way to know if your children are safe? Your family can cope with disaster by preparing in advance and working together as a team. Knowing what to do is your best protection and it is your responsibility. Each and every family should develop a family disaster plan.
The key to preparedness is having a plan. Here are the steps to follow to create and implement a family disaster plan:
v Gather information about hazards in your area by contacting your local chapter of the American Red Cross, your county emergency management or the National Weather Service. Find out what types of disasters could occur in your area and how you should respond. Learn your community’s warning signals and evacuation plans. Also, find out about the disaster plans at your workplace, your children’s school and other places where your family spends time.
v Meet with your family to create a plan. Discuss the information you have gathered and why it is important to prepare for disaster. Plan to share responsibilities and work together as a team.
v It is a good idea to pick two places to meet: right outside your home in case of a sudden emergency, like a fire, and outside your neighborhood in case you cannot return home. Everyone, including small children, should know your address and phone number.
v Ask an out-of-state friend to be your “family contact” for everyone to call if the family gets separated. After a disaster, it is often easier to call long distance.
v Have a plan for your pets - be aware that pets are not allowed in American Red Cross shelters. Other arrangements should be secured beforehand.
Once you have created a family disaster plan, it is time to implement the plan so that it may be activated at any point in time. Post emergency telephone numbers by phones (fire, police, ambulance, etc.). Teach your children how and when to call 911. Have your family learn basic safety measures, such as CPR and First Aid. Show each family member 1) how and when to turn off water, gas and electricity at the main switches, and 2) how to use a fire extinguisher. Conduct a home hazard hunt in which you inspect your home for items that can move, fall, break or cause a fire, and correct them. Stock emergency supplies and assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit (see below). Determine the best escape routes from your room and find the safe spots in your home for different types of disasters.
Disaster Supplies Kit
Your kit should include enough supplies to meet your needs for at least three days. Store these supplies in sturdy, easy to carry, water-resistant containers, such as backpacks or duffel bags. It is a good idea to keep a smaller kit in the trunk of your car. Your disaster supplies kit should include:
v A three-day supply of water (one gallon per person per day) and food that will not spoil
v One change of clothing and footwear per person
v One blanket or sleeping bag per person
v A first aid kit, including prescription medicines
v Emergency tools, including a battery-powered radio, flashlight and plenty of extra batteries
v An extra set of car keys
v Cash
v Special items for infant, elderly or disables family members
v An extra pair of glasses
Practice and maintain your plan. Review important information to make sure your family remembers meeting places, phone numbers and safety rules. Conduct drills.
You want to replace stored water every three months and stored food every six months. Test and recharge your fire extinguisher according to manufacturer’s instructions. Smoke alarms should be checked monthly and batteries changed at least once a year.
Something else to keep in mind is the value of neighbors during a difficult time. Working with neighbors can save lives. Why not meet with your neighbors to plan how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster until help arrives? If you are a member of a neighborhood organization, introduce disaster preparedness as a new activity. Know your neighbors’ special skills and consider how you could help neighbors who have special needs, such as disabled and elderly persons. Make plans for child care in case parents cannot get home - that way, all of the children in your neighborhood can be safe.
More on Water Storage and Purification
Water Storage and Purification
1. Water Requirements
v The amount of water required to survive will vary depending on the environment—when it’s hotter, you’ll need more
v The average requirement is 1 gallon per person, per day - 2 quarts for drinking and 2 quarts for food prep and bathing
v Store at least a 3 day supply. Two weeks is preferred.
v Don’t forget to store water for pets and animals.
2. Water Discipline
v Have you ever considered how much water you really use per day? 3.5 gallons per flush of the toilet; 5+ gallons for a shower; 37 gallons for a load of laundry; 15 gallons for the dishwasher; and 3 gallons per minute every time the tap is running . 4 flushes + 1 shower + 1 load of laundry + 1 load in the dishwasher + 1 minute of Tap time = ~ 74 gallons per day!
3. Types of Purification
v Mechanical (ceramic filter/charcoal filter/UV) – There are numerous brands and types of mechanical filters on the market. Some are a combination of Ceramic filter, chemical treatment, and charcoal filtration.
_ Ceramic filters have a long life (>1,000 gallons) and have excellent filtration properties against solid matter and organisms, but clog quickly and are labor intensive. They can be easily cleaned with plastic scrubbing pads (usually included with filter). For home use, get one that you can fill and let gravity do the work.
_ Ceramic filters will not filter chemicals from the water. If you are concerned about chemical contamination, use an active charcoal filter in conjunction with your ceramic filter. Many filters come in this combination. NOTE: Once used, no matter how little, Active Charcoal will “wear” out. It is usually only good for a few hundred gallons. Get a filter that allows simple replacement of the charcoal.
_ UV lights are meant to kill organisms. They will not filter anything.
v Chemical – There are also numerous brands of chemical purification. All are intended to kill harmful organisms in the water. Chemical purification will not protect you from harmful chemical contaminants.
_ Household bleach (2 drops per quart)
_ Iodine tablets (not for long term use)
§ _ Other brands available from Walmart & outdoor recreational stores
v Still - If electrical power or another source of abundant energy is available, consider using a water purification still. (available from survival stores) A still may not remove all chemical contaminants—again, it may be a good idea to run distilled water through an active charcoal filter.
4. Types of Storage
v Numerous types available. Pick the ones that fit your budget and the space available. Key points:
1. Commercially bottled water is preferred. It has an indefinite shelf life if unopened. Rotation is wise.
2. Your house probably has built in water storage in water heater & toilet tanks (as long as you don’t have toilet cleaner in the tank). In an emergency, fill containers and bathtubs with water. This should be disinfected before use.
3. Water can be stored for years
4. Container should be opaque. Light will promote algae growth.
5. Temperature will not affect storage. However, freezing could cause the container to burst and heat could cause the water to take on the taste of the container.
5. How to Store Water
v Your own containers must be prepared. Here are some tips:
1. Use food grade containers only.
2. Do not use containers previously used to store non-food products.
3. Do not use milk or juice containers. They have protein and fruit sugars that cannot be removed.
4. Empty and refill containers regularly.
5. Purify water before storing or use public water supply (tap water).
v Store containers off the ground.
v Prevent contamination: Do not store plastic containers near gasoline, pesticides, and chemicals.
v Improve the taste of stored water by pouring it back and forth between two containers, pouring it through a filter, letting it sit open overnight, adding a pinch of salt or adding a drink mix such as Kool-aid.
v Do not keep empty containers! Store water in them.
6. Preparing Water Containers
v Wash container with warm, soapy water.
v Rinse.
v Sanitize with one teaspoon of household bleach (unscented) per one quart of water. Swish and leave it for two minutes.
v Rinse with drinking water.
v Fill container with tap water. Don't use a hose.
v Cap and label “Drinking Water” and date stored.
v After six months, empty and refill.
7. HOW TO PURIFY WATER
v Boiling is the safest method. Bring water to a rolling boil for 3 to 5 minutes.
v Chlorination is the simplest method of treating water. Use liquid household bleach with 5.25-6.0% sodium hypochlorite (no scented or color-safe). Add 8 drops per gallon for clear water. Add 16 drops per gallon for cloudy water. (Filter first) Stir or shake and let stand for 30 minutes. Water should have a slight chlorine smell to it. If not treat again.
v Distillation- involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. Removes salt and parasites.
v Iodine Tablets - sold at camping stores, not for long term use. They may be harmful to some people.
v Commercial Filters - units like Britta DO NOT remove parasites or other contaminants! They only improve taste.
8. DO NOT DRINK:
v Pool water
v Waterbeds
v Hot tubs
v Flood water
9. WHEN TO DISINFECT WATER
v Water used in beverages such as coffee, tea, lemonade or baby formula.
v Water used as an ingredient in food products. ( i.e. sauces, desserts, dressings. Etc.)
v Water used for hand washing.
v Water used for making ice.
v Water used for washing and sanitizing of food prep surfaces (i.e. dishes, counter tops, etc.)
v Water used for washing produce.
Water, Water Everywhere and not a Drop to Drink!!
Water
Water from municipal water systems has undergone a series of procedures before it reaches our spigots. We are so used to turning on the tap and getting clean, clear, water that we don’t think much about it. We take clean water for granted until an event disrupts its flow – or the water system is contaminated. Suddenly drinkable water becomes extremely important. So we should store water just in case…
How Much Water do I Need?
You should have at least a three-day supply of water and you should store at least one gallon of water per person per day. A normally active person needs at least one-half gallon of water daily just for drinking. Additionally, in determining adequate quantities, take the following into account:
v • Individual needs vary, depending on age, physical condition, activity, diet, and
v climate.
v • Children, nursing mothers, and ill people need more water.
v • Very hot temperatures can double the amount of water needed.
v • A medical emergency might require additional water.
How Should I Store Water?
To prepare safest and most reliable emergency supply of water, it is recommended you purchase commercially bottled water. Keep bottled water in its original container and do not open it until you need to use it. You may wish to prepare your own containers of water, however. You should store water in a cool, dark place. Replace the water every six months if not using commercially bottled water. Bottled water is considered to have an indefinite safety shelf life if it is produced in accordance with Current Good Manufacturing Process and quality standard regulations and is stored in an unopened, properly sealed container. Therefore, FDA does not require an expiration date for bottled water. However, long-term storage of bottled water may result in aesthetic defects, such as off-odor and taste. Bottlers may voluntarily put expiration dates on their labels (the dates are useful for stock rotation rather than a “use by” date.)
If You Prepare Your Own Containers of Water
Good choices for your own storage containers are two-liter plastic soft drink bottles. Alternatively you may use plastic cooking oil containers, and plastic mouthwash containers.
If you use soft drink containers clean thoroughly the bottles with dish washing soap and water, and rinse completely so there is no residual soap. Sanitize the bottles by adding a solution of 1 teaspoon of non-scented liquid household chlorine bleach to a quart of water. Re-cap the bottle and swish the sanitizing solution in the bottle so that it touches all surfaces. After sanitizing the bottle pour out the solution and rinse thoroughly the container with water.
If you use plastic cooking oil containers wash them several times with warm to hot water and detergent several times to remove oil film from container. [Add water + soap to container, re-cap bottle, and shake to wash throughout.] Wash until you do not note traces of oil in the water + soap solution you pour out of the container. Sanitize as with soft drink containers.
If you use mouthwash containers rinse them a couple of times with water and then sanitize as with soft drink containers.
Note: Plastic jugs or cardboard containers that have contained milk or fruit juice have residues of milk protein or fruit sugars, which cannot be removed from their containers without some difficulty. They can provide environments for bacterial growth when water is stored in them. And milk containers do not seal well and their thin plastic can break or be punctured. Cardboard containers leak easily and are not designed for long-term storage of liquids. Also, do not use glass containers, because they can break and are heavy.
Filling Water Containers
Fill the bottle to the top with regular tap water. If the tap water has been commercially treated from a water utility with chlorine, you do not need to add anything else to the water to keep it clean. If the water you are using comes from a well or water source that is not treated with chlorine, add 5-8 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of non-scented liquid household chlorine bleach to one gallon of water. [Two liters = approximately ½ Gallon.] Close tightly the container using the original cap. Be careful not to contaminate the cap or container by touching the inside of either with your finger. Place a date on the outside of the container so that you know when you filled it. Store it in a cool, dark place. Replace the water every six months if not using commercially bottled water.
Toilet tanks and water heaters hold clean water, which can be used in an emergency.
You may purchase different size water storage containers from local stores or from various Web sites. K mart did stock 6 ½ gallon (Blitz) and 7 gallon (Reliance)
containers.
For everyday use consider using a reusable plastic bottle, which you can re-fill with water from the tap. Estimates are that one quarter of bottled water comes from municipal sources, anyway.
Simple Garden Plans, Including Lasagna Gardening
This site has information on about a dozen different types of gardens which are easy and effective. It covers everything from a lasagna garden to square foot gardening. Check out all the links!
Lasagna Gardening:
Lasagna Gardening 101
Lasagna Gardening-complete guide from Mother Earth News
Lasagna Gardening-complete, but concise article. This one covers it all in a nutshell!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)